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rekkabell committed Dec 10, 2024
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/berg_bay.html
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<h1>berg bay</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/berg_bay_05.jpg' alt='a view of the islands at the entrance to berg bay' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Berg Bay is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 12th 2024, we left Frosty Bay and headed north into Blake Channel towards Berg Bay. The sun was with us that day, a very nice surprise!</p>

<img src='../media/content/travel/berg_bay_01.jpg' alt='pino sailing wing on wing' loading='lazy'>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/frances_bay.html
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<h1>frances bay</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/frances_bay.jpg' alt='5h30 am in Frances Bay, as we motored out' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Frances Bay is the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Klahoose, We Wai Kum, and Homalco First Nations people; the Liǧʷiłdax̌ʷ Treaty Society and the We Wai Kai Nation.</p>

<p>We visited this anchorage on May 11th 2024, no one else was anchored there that day. Located just south to the entrance to Bute Inlet, Frances Bay is a deep water anchorage surrounded by tall hills. It offers protection from NW winds, but is open to the south.<p>

<p>With no south wind on the forecast, we thought it safe. One issue with this bay is that there is submerged logging equipment fouling certain areas. There is a logging ramp on the NW side, so we assumed that the cable people keep fouling their anchors on stretches out from that point, and seems to reach the other side of the bay (according to a commenter on the Navionics community edits).</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/frosty_bay.html
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<h1>frosty bay</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/frosty_bay_01.jpg' alt='pino at anchor in frosty bay' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Frosty Bay is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 10th 2024, we traveled into Ernest Sound and through Seward Passage to anchor in Frosty Bay. We had wind almost all the way, contrary to what the book by Marilyn Johnson seemed to suggest. The SE wind blowing up Clarence Strait rolled over the hills and filled out sails until we reached Eaton Point. Once past it, the wind came intermittenly, we motor sailed through Seward Passage.</p>

<p>We dropped anchor in a total of 60 ft of water at high tide(highest tide), making sure to stay far from shore to avoid another <a href='ratz_harbor.html' class='local'>Ratz Harbor</a> incident.</p>
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4 changes: 3 additions & 1 deletion site/fury_cove.html
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<h1>fury cove</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/fury_cove_02.jpg' loading='lazy'>

<div class='notice'>Fury Cove is part of the Penrose Island Marine Park, but apparently, the cove was closed to boaters in 2022 and 2023 due to Wuikinux Nation concerns regarding their traditional lands (according to the Waggoner Cruising Guide), and it appears that it is still closed. We anchored here without knowing about this. To know whether or not you can anchor here, check the B.C. Parks website. Mariners in dire need of a safe shelter are allowed to anchor there(force majeure). Alternatives include Frypan Bay, Big Frypan, and Folly Bird.</div>
<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Fury Cove, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Wuikinuxv (Oweekeno) and híɫzaqv w̓áwís (Heiltsuk) Nations.</p>

<div class='notice'>Fury Cove is part of the Penrose Island Marine Park, but apparently, the cove was closed to boaters in 2022 and 2023 due to Wuikinuxv Nation concerns regarding their traditional lands (according to the Waggoner Cruising Guide), and it appears that it is still closed. We anchored here without knowing about this. To know whether or not you can anchor here, check the B.C. Parks website. Mariners in dire need of a safe shelter are allowed to anchor there(force majeure). Alternatives include Frypan Bay, Big Frypan, and Folly Bird.</div>

<p>We sailed into Fury Cove at 1600 on May 22nd. Prior to that, we were anchored in Millbrook Cove, just a short 13.6 NM away... short is correct, right? Well, technically yes, but when sailing into 15-25 NW winds the number painfully balloons up to 30 NM. We left the anchorage at 1000, shortly after SY Moonshine departed.</p>

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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/ketchikan.html
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<figcaption>An icon of the city is <b>the rainbird</b>, a hunched over bird holding a very small umbrella over its head. Above is Rek's version of the rainbird. <i>"Mythical but nearly ubiquitous, the rainbird stoically endures Ketchikan's prodigious rains. This somber avatar for our own resignation is seen in myriad forms: logos, shoulder patches, pins, ads, business names."</i><br>(Sourced from <b>Our Town</b>, a magazine published by <b>Historic Ketchikan Inc.</b>)</figcaption>
</figure>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Ketchikan is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People, and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 2nd 2024 we arrived in Ketchikan, after a 35 NM-long sail from <b>Foggy Bay</b>. Boats checking into Alaska from Canada can request permission to anchor in Foggy Bay to help cut down the transit, this is what we chose to do because we are not a fast boat, especially if we have to motor.</p>

<p>We thought about waiting in an anchorage north of <b>Dundas Island</b> to then sail straight to Ketchikan, but there was a few days of big weather coming(that same evening, in fact), so we felt a bit hurried to get past Dixon Entrance. The winds were forecast to rise to 30-40 kts out of the Southeast on the 1st, then to 45 kts, and would stay high until Tuesday the 4th. Had we stopped at Dundas Island, we might have been trapped there for 3 days(worse is there is no VHF or cell reception in the anchorage). The weather would not reach as high as Foggy Bay that night, so we could anchor there and then leave the next morning for Ketchikan. While still in cell signal range, we called the CBP to alert them that we had planned to anchor in Foggy Bay, they said it was fine. As soon as we arrived in the US, we changed the chart card for our chartplotter for South East Alaska waters, and rolled time back one hour. For a few weeks, we'd be living on Sitka time.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/petersburg.html
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<h1>petersburg</h1>
<img src='../media/content/travel/petersburg_03.jpg' alt='pino docked in Petersburg in the north harbor' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Petersburg is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 16th, we left Deception Point Cove at 0700 to make our way north through Wrangell Narrows. We hesitated to take this path, because it's a very busy artery, but it is the fastest way to Petersburg, and to Tracy Arm. As its name implies, it's an 18 NM-long narrow that joins Sumner Strait with Frederick Sound. The waters narrow at certain points, and are bordered by rocks, small islands and shallows. It is very straightforward, the channel markers are everywhere and keep you from wandering into nearby dangers.</p>

<p><b>Deception Point Cove</b>. <i>A note on Deception Point Cove. It's a really handy stop-over if waiting for transit Wrangell Narrows, we arrived there at 1600 and stayed overnight. The 10-15 SW knot winds bent around the corner(from the SE) and reached us into the anchorage a little, but there is some protection in the bay from swell because of shallows and a large reef. The reef does shrink at high tide, but it still helped a little. The wind died late at night. The depths in this bay are very good, very different from our anchoring in Southeast Alaska so far! We dropped the hook in 10 feet at low tide(!!) for a max of 18 feet that day(high tide wasn't that big that day). When hauling the anchor, we saw that the bottom was sticky grey mud, there was also a bit of kelp on the fluke, but nothing that compromised holding. A fishing boat was moored with us in the bay near the opening. Two logs are tethered in place in the center of the bay, apparently there for log booms. They take up a bit of room, but the bay is big and there is plenty of anchoring space. The logs seem to move with the currents and wind, which helps.</i></p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/port_mcneill.html
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<h1>port mcneill</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/port_mcneill_01.jpg' alt='a view of port mcneill when leaving the municipal marina, with the visitor and harbour authority office in view' loading='lazy'>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Port McNeill, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis First Nations.</p>

<p>On May 16th 2024, We had a rough, short transit to Port McNeill(B.C, Canada) from <a href='telegraph_cove.html' class='local'>Telegraph Cove</a>. The wind was blowing 20-25 knots that day, coming out of where? Out of where we need to go always, of course! Such is the nature of sailing in this region.</p>

<p>We've sailed in that kind of weather often when offshore, but the dangers are many near land. We had to dodge islands, shoals, rocks, boat traffic, ferries, and contend with ever-increasing waves and wind. The current was with us, but wind opposing current makes for even larger, and steeper waves. In fact, each knot of current opposing the wind creates waves normally associated with 10 additional knots of wind. By the end the sea was covered with whitecaps. With 2 reefs in, Pino handled it fine, but maneuvering with so many dangers around you is very scary.<p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/port_neville.html
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<h1>port neville</h1><img src="../media/content/travel/port_neville_01.jpg" alt="a look from the government dock at the head of Port Neville, with hills robbed of their trees because of logging" loading="lazy"></a>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Port Neville, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the K’ómoks and Wei Wai Kum First Nations; the We Wai Kai and Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis Nations, as well as the Liǧʷiłdax̌ʷ Treaty Society.</p>

<div class='notice'>It has come to our attention that the Tlowitsis First Nation will soon take ownership of the Port Neville wharf, and that there will be improvements done to the facility prior to the transfer. The SRD has access to $875,000.00 in funding from Transport Canada to make necessary repairs, improvements and maintenance work to the Wharf. (This is exciting, the Port Neville wharf was looking very ratty when we were there). Read more about it <a href="https://srd.ca/port-neville-wharf-facility/" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>

<p>Port Neville is a good stopover when sailing down Johnstone Strait, whether you are north or sounthbound. We stopped there on our way north on May 14th 2024.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/prince_rupert.html
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<h1>prince rupert</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/prince_rupert_04.jpg' alt='pino at the Prince Rupert Yacht Club dock' loading='lazy'>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Telegraph Cove, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Gitxaała and Kitsumkalum Nations; the La̱xyuubm Ts’msyen (Tsimshian) First Nations and the Lax Kw’Alaams band.</p>

<p>On May 29th 2024, Pino arrived in Prince Rupert. This is a milestone for us, we've been reading about this city for a long time, now it has leapt out of the pages of the books and websites we've consulted. We are in it, and thrilled!</p>

<img src='../media/content/travel/captain_cove.jpg' alt='pino anchored in captain cove' loading='lazy'>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/ruth_island_cove.html
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<h1>ruth island cove</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/ruth_island_cove_07.jpg' alt='pino at anchor in ruth island cove, under a blue sky with beautiful towering snowy mountains' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Ruth Island Cove is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 17th, we let go of the dock in <a href='petersburg.html' class='local'>Petersburg</a> and made our way of the channel and into Frederick Sound. The wind was forecast to be light that day, but it's rare that there is nothing. We raised Pino's main, and surely enough, we had a very light breeze to help us along, at least until we reached Sukoi Islets.</p>

<p>Before we reached the Sukoi Islets, we caught a glimpse of our very first glacier, tucked between two mountains and rising high above the water side hills. It was too far to photograph, but we could observe it well enough with binoculars. There is something deeply hypnotic about glaciers, a reminder of a time now past. Many glaciers are now receding, they leave beautiful formations behind, but few in the area lay on the water. With augmented eyes, we could see spikes in the glacier. This wondrous sight disappeared once we passed the islets.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/shoal_bay.html
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<h1>shoal bay</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/shoal_bay_01.jpg' alt='pino at a dock in shoal bay, with mountains towering in the background' loading='lazy'>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Shoal Bay, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Homalco, K’ómoks, Wei Wai Kum First Nations; the We Wai Kai and Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis Nations, as well as the Liǧʷiłdax̌ʷ Treaty Society.</p>

<p>After transiting <a href='yuculta_and_dent_rapids.html' class='local'>Yuculta and Dent rapids</a>, we passed Nodales Channel and ducked into Shoal Bay on East Thurlow Island to find a spot on the government dock. To our surprise, there were 2 cruising boats there (although they left a few hours after we came in). At least, there was enough room for us.</p>

<p>Shoal Bay faces Phillip Arm, if anchoring it is possible for outflow winds to turn this bay into a lee shore(why we opted to dock). Another option was Bickley Bay, but it too suffers the same problem, winds can funnel in at night and reports we read said that holding there was not fantastic. We didn't have outflow winds here, though.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/sitka.html
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<h1>sitka</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/sitka_01.jpg' alt='mount edgecumbe on a clear day' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Sitka is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>We arrived in Sitka on very clear day in late June, the snowy mountains were visible that day, completely unobscured. The sun was out, too, but only for today, the sky turned grey that very same night and stayed grey.</p>

<p>We were assigned a spot in Eliason Harbor, in someone's vacated slip, because like many marinas in Southeast Alaska the transient slips are always full of local boats. The slip is on the furthest finger in the marina, it takes a while to get to and from shore — especially if doing multiple trips, and multiple trips we did do. In one day, we must have walked the length of the marina back and forth 10 times.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/snug_cove.html
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<h1>snug cove</h1>
<img src='../media/content/travel/snug_cove_05.jpg' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Snug Cove is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People; and the Haida, Dënéndeh Nations.</p>

<p>On June 6th 2024, we arrived in Snug Cove on Prince of Wales Island in <a href='us_se_alaska.html' class='local'>us se alaska</a>.</p>

<p>We left <a href='ketchikan.html' class='local'>Ketchikan</a> at 0700, pushing off the dock between squalls, happy that one wasn't blowing at the time of our exit. We raised the main just outside of the breakwater, and proceeded to sail out of Tongass Narrows, trying to make distance before any of the cruiseships left the dock... we didn't want to encounter them in this narrow pass.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/sointula.html
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<h1>sointula</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/sointula_03.jpg' alt='' loading='lazy'>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Sointula, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis First Nations.</p>

<p>On August 6th 2024 we sailed onto the Sointula docks, on Malcom island. We crossed over from <a href='port_mcneill.html' class='local'>Port McNeill</a>, a very short 3.5 nautical mile sail, in fact, Port McNeill is visible from the town docks.</p>

<p>We hadn't planned on stopping here, but while in Port McNeill we ran into our friends Lynda and Glenn on Commodore, and they recommended that we spend some time there, so, we did!</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/telegraph_cove.html
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<h1>telegraph cove</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/telegraph_cove.jpg' loading='lazy'>

<p><b>Note</b>. What we refer to on this page as Telegraph Cove, is on the traditional, stolen, unceded, overlapping and/or shared territory land of the Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis First Nations.</p>

<p>We arrived at Telegraph Cove on May 15th 2024 at 1500, after leaving <a href='port_neville.html' class='local'>Port Neville</a> at 0600. We had wind up until Growler Cove, but had to motor the rest. The current was with us and gave us an additional 2 knots of propulsion. Having current with you makes for very efficient motoring.</p>

<p>We could see boats around us on <a href='ais.html' class='local'>AIS</a>, we sailed until we couldn't so we were a bit slower than everyone else, all points appeared to converge on <a href='port_mcneill.html' class='local'>Port McNeill</a>. We knew that our speed would not grant us passage all the way there, but we knew we could make it to Telegraph Cove before the current turned against us. We had planned on anchoring in either Port Harvey or Boughey Bay, to weather out a 30-40 knot gale forecast for the following day, but because we arrived at the entrance to Havannah Channel early (it was 0930), we decided to push on. The current turned to flood at around 1600 that day.</p>
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions site/wrangell.html
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<h1>wrangell</h1><img src='../media/content/travel/wrangell_04.jpg' alt='a photo of boats moored in heritage harbor in wrangell, southeast alaska' loading='lazy'>

<p>What we refer to on this page as Wrangell is on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the Lingít Aaní (Tlingit) People and the Dënéndeh Nation.</p>

<p>On June 13th 2024, we left <a href='berg_bay.html' class='local'>Berg Bay</a> at 0530, bound for Wrangell. We got up early to catch the last of the flood tide to the narrows halfway up <b>Blake Channel</b>. After the narrows, the current starts to ebb north, which makes it ideal for getting to Wrangell fast. Yesss, <i>double flood</i>!</p>

<p>Although, catching the meeting point of the two currents when both are at zero requires careful planning, we can't arrive too late, otherwise the last of the flood will start running against us. Any bit of current against us makes us crawl at a godawful speed, and it's usually also at that moment that the wind also rises out of where we need to go-that didn't happen today, we were spared. Everything went smooth, at 6h45, at the time of reversal, Pino was gliding through the narrows.</p>
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5 changes: 3 additions & 2 deletions site/yuculta_and_dent_rapids.html
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<!-- Generated file, do not edit -->

<h1>yuculta and dent rapids</h1>
<figure>
<h1>yuculta and dent rapids</h1><figure>
<a href="../media/content/travel/yuculta_dent_rapids_map.jpg" target="_blank"><img src='../media/content/travel/yuculta_dent_rapids_map.jpg' alt='a map documenting the hazards and back eddies for the yuculta and dent rapids' loading='lazy'></a>
<figcaption><i>A map documenting where the hazards and back eddies are when transiting northbound through Yuculta Rapids. Click image to view enlarged version.</i></figcaption>
</figure>

<p>What we refer to on this page as the Yuculta and Dent rapids are on the traditional, stolen, unceded land of the We Wai Kum, Kwiakah and Homalco First Nations people; the Liǧʷiłdax̌ʷ Treaty Society and the We Wai Kai Nation.</p>

<ul>
<li>Yucultas to Gillard Passage: 2.1 NM</li>
<li>Gillard Passage: 0.3 NM</li>
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